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In my January loves recap, I mentioned the uncapsule wardrobe—my version of a capsule wardrobe, wherein we fill our closets with quality pieces that suit our personal style rather than the neutral, classic pieces associated with the traditional capsule wardrobe. And while I included it in what I’m loving for this month, it’s really something I want to bring into my whole year. So let’s get into what the uncapsule wardrobe really is and how to build one that works for you.

A capsule wardrobe is a small collection of versatile clothes; simple pieces that can be mixed and matched with each other to create a number of outfits. For someone whose style naturally veers toward classic silhouettes and neutral colors, it’s perfect. For anyone else, it’s not. But at its core, the concept of a capsule wardrobe has a lot of value. Slow fashion, not latching onto micro trends, investing in high quality pieces—the uncapsule wardrobe takes those notions and reinvents them within your personal style.

So let’s start with the concept of personal style. To build an uncapsule wardrobe, you have to know what you like. If you have no grasp on your personal style and don’t know where to start, I think the best place to start is your closet. Consider what pieces you have that make you feel good, that you feel cool and confident in. Consider what pieces you feel are missing. Pinterest is always my next stop—find outfit inspiration that feels not just like a great look, but also like something that you would actually wear. Pull pieces from the looks you love and envision them in your wardrobe. After you’ve gone through your closet and scrolled for inspo, put together a list. Across all the pieces you love, what do they have in common? What thread ties all of it together? Bright colors? Fitted silhouettes? Fun details? Pull at those threads until you figure out what it is that you love—and then make another list. Of the pieces you really want to add to your wardrobe that fall under the umbrella of your personal style. The deeper your understanding of what you like goes, the easier it’ll be for you to build up the wardrobe you want. One of my most used pieces of all time is a cow print purse. It’s not exactly a neutral piece, but it’s become a staple in my outfits because it fits with my personal style.

Now, how does slow fashion fit into this? Obviously, shopping ethically made and fabricated clothes is ideal, but that’s not necessarily what I’m referencing here when I talk about slow fashion. It’s not always totally realistic or accessible, and that’s okay! What I am talking about is how long you’ll keep a piece in your closet—it’s longevity for you. When you’re considering making a purchase, this is the second layer of consideration. Is it exactly the thing you’re looking for, or is there something about it that you would change? If it’s not exactly perfect—if the fit is off, if there’s a detail that doesn’t work for you, if the color isn’t what you originally wanted—hold out. If you pull the trigger on that imperfect purchase, even if it’s almost what you’re looking for, odds are it’ll become something that sits in the back of your closet while you keep shopping for the thing that you actually want. I spent so long looking for the perfect black midi dress. I also spent so much money buying a bunch that weren’t what I actually wanted and then proceeded to never wear. If I’d held out for the one I have now that I wear nonstop, I would’ve only spent a whopping $20. In general, the goal is to put more thought into making a purchase. It’ll make it easier to avoid microtrends, to contribute to fast-fashion, and to load your closet full of pieces you’ll just end up donating.

When you get to know your personal style and slow down your shopping, putting together outfits is suddenly so much easier—and more fun. Even though you might not have a true capsule wardrobe, full of pieces that are all completely interchangeable with each other, you’ll still have built a wardrobe full of things you love. When you love your closet, everything comes together seamlessly.